Chasing Ella - The End

Nine Arches Bridge

We climbed down from Little Adam's Peak pretty quickly, but we were still well past lunch time when we finally emerged onto the main road. We walked into the Flower Garden Cafe planning on lunching there - and were horrified at the prices. Ella is famous for having tons of pricey places with bad food, inadequate portions or cheap places with equally bad food. This place was no different. We were running out of time though, so we decided on lunching there.

After that, we started walking towards Nine Arches bridge. There are several ways to get to it, and we continued along the Passara road before turning off into a small by lane that led through tiny houses directly onto a hill side overlooking Nine Arches. It was quite a walk, and some of the adults in our party felt it hard.

Ella to Nine Arches Bridge via Google Maps

Then started the slip 'n slide. There was no proper path to the bride, just a teeny tiny gap in between plants and roots that people had carved for themselves as they came and went from this famous site. My mother and I wore out the seat of our trousers slipping on our asses down that slope. My phone was constantly in and out of my pocket as I either stopped to take pictures or slide down a bit more.

 And finally, we were there. So were a 100 other tourists, some of whom had obviously been there for a while. They were lying on picnic blankets and even playing cards. It soon dawned on me that everyone was waiting for a train to come because, well, it's the rules; if you come to Nine Arches, you gotta get a pic of a train.

We were lucky. A train came by pretty soon. Afterwards, we went to the little tea shop and did what Sri Lankans do best - have plain tea and හකුරු. Once we were relaxed, we started walking back towards Ella station on the railway tracks. We went through the famous Ella tunnel, and took the mandatory pics:

The walk back was so nice but we were glad to see the station. We had dinner that day at Burger Brew, another pretentious establishment whose cheese kottu had more parata than cheese.

Look at how gorgeous this station is

We woke up early the next morning, since the train to Colombo was due at 6.15 am. We picked up our breakfast of rotti and sambol from Vimala Fast Food store (it doesn't serve fast food) and boarded the train in good time. The train stopped in the middle track, away from the platform, so we all had to clamber down and then climb up the tree steel rungs of the train ladder to get in at the door. Thank goodness we were all wearing pants.

Sunrise from the station

That's it for my family trip to Ella folks. I haven't travelled since then so my blog's gonna be quiet for a while. Unless of course, I put up a video on YouTube.

*All pictures are subject to copyright © Asuka Randeniye 2017

Chasing Ella - and Little Adam's Peak

Ella Rock as seen from Little Adam's Peak. #feels

One week later, let me reassure you that I did take lunch. After spending all morning making Sri Lankan style fried rice with my mother, and packing them all up neatly, I wasn’t about to forget that.

The rest of the journey was uneventful, even anti-climactic really. If you follow me on Instagram, then you know that our journey was mostly through the rain. There was a lot of mist. Soon it became too dark to see outside and when we finally arrived in Ella, it was past 8PM.

We stayed at Ella Okreech Hotel, a lovely place with cottages made mostly of old railway sleepers. I was so fascinated that I left my poor mother trying to figure out the complicated hot water system to take picture after picture of all the places they’d used railway sleepers. None of them were very good btw – night lighting is sooo bad. It cost us LKR 6000 for 2 nights without food.

Stairway to heaven :)

Dinner was at ‘Fish and Chips,’ a humble place compared to the big names like Café Chill. But 6 of us dined on noodles, fried rice and sandwiches for less than LKR 2000, so I consider it a win. That was the only meal-related ‘win’ we had that whole trip. Ella is EXPENSIVE everyone. Beware if you are on a budget like me.

Next morning, we had breakfast at ‘Rotti Hut’, just a few doors below ‘Fish and Chips.’ The food wasn’t that great, but we were in a hurry and anyway, we’d been warned that Ella wouldn’t be cheap. We left by 7.30am or so and started walking towards Little Adam’s Peak along the Passara road. There’s about 2.5 km to the turning off point next to Flower Garden Resort (more on that later) and it’s an easy walk.

This doggo is sleeping inches away from a cliff. Inches!

The walk up was great too. There were already tons of people but we managed to go up pretty fast. There’s stairs most of the way, so if you’re scared of heights, you’re covered. The bad news begins when you get to the top. There are two summits: the normal, safe one and the dizzying one. We left our parents at the safe one, under the one lone tree and began the death-defying trek down (and up) the next one.

Our parents stayed at the tree at the end;we risked our lives a little more

Ok, I’m exaggerating a bit. Just a bit. The 2 summits are connected by a thin spine of land and to get to that you have to scramble down the sheer face of the mountain you’re on (there’s no path, just rocks exposed by run-off water) and then climb up another 90⁰ slope to the top. Nope, I have no pics – my phone was safely jammed into my bag while I squealed and squeaked my way down on all fours.

Climbing up was easier and sooo worth it. If you are under 40, hell if you’re under 50 and up for it, I seriously recommend going for it. The view is fantastic. You can see all the way to Ravana Falls and you literally feel on top of the world and dwarfed by all the mountains at the same time.

I don't like putting up pics with my face on it, but this is the only pic I've got that shows how high up we were. Btw, I'm grinning through my fear here. Phones don't capture sweat beads :P

Going back was another nightmare but I did it. I survived. Can I talk about Nine Arches Bridge next week? If you can’t wait, go check out my blog on seeing it the first time round.

Have a great week guys! 

*All pictures are subject to copyright © Asuka Randeniye 2017

Chasing Ella - the Train, Actually

This was our view pretty much throughout the entire journey

Sorry about the week’s break; I’m afraid school puts everything out of whack (for those of you who don’t know, I’m a teacher).

That tuk-tuk driver was a gift from heaven. He broke about 50 traffic rules chasing the train and I had a sneaking suspicion that he enjoyed every minute of it. He made the tuk fit into teeny tiny spaces that even I wouldn’t have, and he overtook, undertook and left-took every vehicle on the road to get to Gampola station before the train did. I obsessively watched us get closer and closer to the Gampola town on Google Maps, and then just as we reached the outskirts… we hit traffic.

Really???

Needless to say, we missed the train. But the game wasn’t over. The driver revved the engine, and off we went again. This time we were determined to make it to Nawalapitiya before the train.

I counted the stations between Gampola and N’pitiya and there were 3 major ones. The train was climbing uphill, slowing down now and I knew it would stop in N’pitiya for 15 minutes to change engine drivers. This was our one chance to get on that train!

“What if we don’t make it?” my mother asked worriedly, staring at my pinched face.

“We have to” I muttered (no joke, I actually said this). Oh, me and my theatrics.

Just to give you an idea of how far we went in a tuk tuk - that's just under 1/3 the complete distance to Ella :P

I eyed Maps again. We were close to Ulapane station but I couldn’t hear the train. I called my boyfriend.

“No, we didn’t reach Ulapane yet” he yelled over the sound of train wheels clacking. “I think you guys passed us.”

And finally, we were ahead. We flew over the roads, past Ulapane, past all the other stations and began to get close to Nawalapitiya. That’s when the rail gates started. Three times we were forced to watch as that mad-cap train rumbled past us, inches from our noses, as we waited for the railway gates to open. Each time, my bf and his family watched us from the back window, waving occasionally, like some messed up version of a WWII movie.

We were neck to neck now. The road and the rail. We kept on the train’s tail until it passed a bend and disappeared from sight. But almost immediately, the most beautiful sign on earth came up on the road.

Nawalapitiya Station

We fairly fell out of the tuk and I would have happily given the driver 2000 bucks, but my ever-pragmatic mother already had LKR 1600 in loose change ready. We paid him, thanked him profusely and ran onto the platform just as the new set of engine drivers took their seats.

We did get tea...

And there they were, waving furiously through the smoke and the crowds. My bf had the biggest smile on his face and his family couldn’t stop talking about what an exciting and scary experience that was. I was sure the entire carriage knew what happened, but luckily they’d been too preoccupied.

I fell into my seat. I don’t even remember who put my bags onto the rack or when the train pulled out. I was so relieved, it took me a few minutes to realize that everyone was looking at me expectantly, waiting for an answer.

“Huh?” I looked at my bf for help.

“Lunch babe” he said impatiently. “You were supposed to bring lunch, remember?”

(To be contined)

Chasing Ella

Chasing the train was never more fun - follow the thread on my Twitter

'Chasing Ella' kind of sounds like a movie title, and this trip sorta started off like one too. Big movie chase sequence and all that. Let me tell you how that went down.

So this was a family trip, my mother and I were supposed to join the train from Kandy. This is the 9.45AM train from Colombo Fort to Badulla. 1st class costs LKR 1000,  2nd class costs LKR 430 and 3rd class costs LKR 270 per person. We were in first class peeps. Sometimes you gotta live life, not  just survive it y'know?

Anyhoo, train was scheduled to pull into Kandy station at 12.20 and my mother and I were there around 12 like the eager beavers we were. I called my boyfriend to let him know and I heard his horrified voice down the line,

"The train doesn't come to Kandy babe - it turns at Pera!"

Shit.

Usually, all the trains from Colombo to Badulla come to Kandy, unload some passengers, go back to Peradeniya and then turns towards Badulla. All the trains, except this one. And I, like the idiot I was, didn't double check where it would come to. 

I looked at the clock. We had 15 minutes to catch a train that had already passed Kadugannawa. Praying to all the gods in the pantheon (and Percy Jackson), we jumped into a three-wheeler and told him to drive like the devil to Peradeniya station.

The ensuing 10 minutes was a lesson in endurance. I was gripping the seat with one hand and my phone in the other, screen open to Google Maps. I alternately watched the road and the blue GPS dot, muttering to myself, "We can make it, we can make it," every time the screen refreshed to show more traffic around Peradeniya.

We didn't make it.

By the time we ran onto the platform at Peradeniya station, the train was on its merry way to Gampola and then Nawalapitiya.

I was ready to cry.

My mother was ready to go back home but I hefted my bags and stalked outside to the first tuk tuk parked there.

"How far is it to Gampola and can we make it in 20 minutes?"

I swear the tuk tuk driver probably thought I was crazy, but he gave a quick reply. "Not sure miss, lot's of traffic now..." (like I didn't know that) "... but if you want to catch the Badulla train, you'll have a better chance at Nawalapitiya"

"How much?"

"1600 ruppees"

A slow whistle escaped my lips. Or it would've, if I could whistle. Amma looked flabbergasted but I was determined to catch that iron b*****d, so I nodded and said, "Let's go"

(Next post coming soon)

Overlooking Lipton's Seat & Splashes at Belihuloya

The mist overtaking Lipton's Seat

Mist.

Cotton wool mist everywhere, so thick that I could cut it with a metaphorical knife and stuff it up...

Excuse me. Kids are reading. 

So we climbed that mountain after a bone-jerking ride in that rust bucket of a bus, all to see... the mist. We were sooo freakin' disappointed. Lipton's Seat is famous for its views and we were looking forward to some killer photos (those who follow my insta will see my marked improvement). Unfortunately, the mist had already covered up the ravine and was advancing fast on us. It was super disappointing, especially since the guides lurking around assured us cheerfully that the view had been crystal clear only half an hour before.

There was a small dirt track leading downhill just behind the statue of Lipton sitting on his throne. We were told that it led to another viewpoint about 300m away so we walked down that to see if we'd have better luck there.

We didn't.

The mist was sneaking up along that path as well. There was no way in hell - hell doesn't have mist though; I digress - that we could see anything and if we didn't move our ass soon, we'd get stuck groping and grabbing our way blindly back to the top (and we all know that groping and grabbing is BAD), so we decided to head up again.

There is a tiny tea shop up there that I highly recommend. Not for the tea, that's too sweet, but the rottis are to die for.

We started heading down again soon after and it took us about an hour or two to get to Dambetenna, with frequent stops to admire the fast disappearing view. The mist made things much more interesting, I have to admit.

Really wanted to try this track but... mist had us beat

We had another cup of tea before we got on the Dambetenna-Haputale bus (LKR 30 per person) and then wound our way back to town. Lunch was sandwiches we'd brought from home. Small tip: the climate is so cool that food keeps well; as long as you don't cook with coconut milk most things will keep.

Haputale-Belihuloya via Google Maps

We had to wait around in Haputale for about half an hour for a bus that would take us to Belihuloya, coz that's where we stayed. We travelled about 30km along the Colombo road and got down at Galagama, where the Belihuloya runs under the road and onto the other side. For LKR 10 (Belihuloya is regulated by a ministry - I don't remember whether its Cultural or Tourism), you get to spend as much time as you'd like in the stream. There's a nice bathing hut for those who want to change but we just skipped about on the rocks and splashed each other.


We'd chosen ලnda Holiday Houses to stay overnight because it was recommended by a friend. It's always important to stay overnight in places that are reputable or known because there are plenty of unscrupulous hotel owners who are looking to make a quick buck off unsuspecting couples. Always travel in packs or shell out for a safe place.

We walked a km or so to reach Landa and then went down a steep incline. It's one of the best eco friendly lodges I've ever seen. It's rustic, and the furniture is heavy wood. The food is authentic Sri Lankan at its best, right down to the wizened old ආත්තම්මා who cooks. We had fried rice for dinner and string hoppers for breakfast and it was fab-u-lous. They grow almost all their own spices and vegetables. There's also a huge zen-like pond surrounded by old green bamboo. Heaven. Just heaven. Totally worth the LKR 6000 (half board) they charged.

We bussed it back to Haputale next morning to catch the train to Colombo. Pro tip: always book a ticket up AND down when travelling long distance by train. We were lucky to grab seats in 2nd class (LKR 330) before the train started overflowing. I got down in Kandy around 4pm. For once, I was fully satisfied with my trip.


Next up: Ella with the family.

(Approx.) Time Taken: 2 nights, 1 day
(Approx.) Total Cost  : LKR 5000 per person (multiple teas included)
Satisfaction                 : 5/5

*All pictures are subject to Copyright © Asuka Randeniye 2017 

Overlooking Lipton's Seat

Lipton's Seat. No I didn't pose.

What do you say about the perfect hike? Turns out, not so much.

For the first time, I managed to go on a hike, not get into any major mishaps and complete it with all my limbs and metabolism intact (cue Idalgashinna memories). 

I do have a small amendment though. We didn't hike to Belihuloya and Adara Kanda. We were researching the hike online - as everyone should - when we realized that Adara Kanda was like Horton Plains without the crowds: just as huge, just as remote. It was no place for two people to hike in alone, so we put that back on the bucket list and searched for other places that were close by.

We hit upon Lipton's Seat.

Lipton's Seat is a viewpoint located high on a hill in what is now the Dambetenna Estate. Miles and miles of verdant tea bushes, as far as the eye can see. It was where Sir Lipton used to gaze out at his empire. Clearly, colonists and tea barons had taste.

Vehicles go all the way to the top so technically, it's not much of a hike. But we'll get to that later.

We bought tickets to catch the infamous 8.00 PM night train from Colombo Fort to Badulla, to get down in Haputale. Third class reserved  seats cost LKR 400 each. You can also get the superliner luxury bus; tickets are LKR 900 per head to Badulla.

via Google Maps

We got down from Haputale around 6.10 AM. I have just 2 photos of the sunrise btw because I value my sleep over a good photo. I can hear Instagram growling at me. My boyfriend was up and taking pics from 5. Why???

පාන් බාගේ බස් එක 

Lipton's Seat is about 15-20 km from Haputale and you can take a tuk, bus or hired vehicle. The tuk will take you all the way up to the Seat and charge you LKR 800, which is fair. We did not have 800 to spare so we decided to bus it.

There are 2 buses going up there: one stops at the Dambetenna estate town. It's more like a junction than a town but you get the gist. There's about 5 km from there to Lipton's Seat. The other bus goes further up and carries a board saying 'Litpion's [sic] Seat'. That will drop you at a fork in the road and you only have to walk 2 km. 

If you're tempted to choose the first one, don't. Despite having a tarred road, the climb up is grueling and you'll be too exhausted to enjoy the view by the time you reach the top. We took option #2 and paid LKR 75 each for the ticket.

(FYI we brought out dinner and breakfast with us to save money and time coz shops in Haputale don't open till well past 8 and we wanted to be on our way before then)

The ride is bone-rattling and packed. The buses are tiny, to accommodate the crazy bends in the road but the drivers have lost their fear glands somewhere in the past. They drive insanely fast until they spy an oncoming vehicle. Then they jerk to a stop and slowly rev the engine again. I was suddenly super-religious and praying to every known pantheon to keep us safe. I do not wanna die. Not like that.

Once we were dropped off, we started the climb. In a few places, we skipped the long bends in the road and clambered up steps in the middle of the tea estates. Oh yeah, did I mention? From the time we passed Haputale, were were inside tea plantations. 

The walk was hard but refreshing. There was so much to see and the green has never seemed so green to me. The air is so crisp up there it hurts your lungs to breathe but you don't wanna stop coz it feels super clean, the way air never is in Colombo or Kandy. 

We finally made it up around 10 but unfortunately, we were in for a bit of a shock.

Which I'll tell you about, next week :)

A Kotmale Adventure

I promise this is the last Kotmale post you guys will have to endure, because I will soon be #budgetingto Belihuloya! Yes! I've heard so much about this place and I'm super excited to be hiking there soon.

Now, the weather hasn't been ideal for hiking lately, so we'll be very careful about preparations for the hike. It's been raining for a few days here in Kandy and the news assures me that it's raining further upcountry too, so frankly, idk what to expect.

As you can probably tell by now, this is just a filler post till I blog about my trip next week. But hope you guys enjoy the video I made on my trip to Kotmale.

See you all soon!