Garrison Cemetery - Beauty Between Life and Death

The Garrison Cemetery

Hey everyone! It's good to be back after 1 week off. I promised myself I wouldn't miss a post even if I had nothing to write about - and then promptly went and missed one! I know you'll forgive me though. I was chillaxing at home during mid-term break. Don't ask me why schools give a week off 3 weeks before their exams; nobody told me why.

Anyhoo, I didn't actually go anywhere recently (my budgeting break is a delayed reaction) but I've got 2 trips coming up in December. In the meantime, let me tell you about a 1-day trip I took some time ago to a very specific place in Kandy, my home town. Don't worry, I'll lay down the tracks from Colombo itself - I know not everyone lives (and loves) in Kandy.

The Garrison Cemetery via Google Maps

I started off on the 7 am intercity train to Kandy from Colombo Fort station in Pettah. The 2nd class tickets are LKR 280 (that's what I booked) and 3rd class is LKR 190. Word of warning: tickets sell like hot cakes, especially on weekends so book yours as soon as they open the dates. These days, train tickets open for booking 30 days prior to the date. 

The train usually takes 2 and 1/2 hours to get to Kandy. That's on a good day. On a horrible day, you'll have engine problems, the signals won't be on or another train'll be stuck and you will get into Kandy around 11 am or 12 noon - if you're lucky. I was lucky to get in around 9.45 am that day. I brought my own breakfast but there are canteens at Fort station if you want to grab something. The train doesn't stop anywhere after Gampaha so I recommend you take breakfast with you.

Kandy is notorious for not having anything to do, especially for the young crowd. It's true there's not much in the way of "entertainment" but for those who love walking, sight-seeing and cultural osmosis, Kandy is the mother lode. 

I walked from Kandy station to the Dalada Maligawa (Temple of the Tooth Relic) but I wasn't going there. You can take a tuk/three-wheeler, but they are ridiculously expensive in Kandy. Kandy tuk tuks are yet to embrace meters although there is an irregular and unreliable PickMe service now in operation. An average three-wheeler will charge you anywhere from LKR 150 to 300 to cart you across the town, which is not even 2 km as the crow flies. Please walk; it'll be healthier for your purse and your gut.

The Garrison Cemetery is located on top of a steep hill immediately behind the Dalada Maligawa. It remained obscure for a long time until HRH Prince Charles visited it in 2013 and put it on the map. It's a small plot of land, beautifully maintained by an old man and his young protegee. It has over 50 graves however, including one of an admiral who fought in the battle of Waterloo. The young caretaker speaks excellent English and will happily give you a tour and comprehensive info on each and every grave - even if don't want to hear it. Their work is astounding; from what he said, I got the picture that although the Commonwealth War Graves Commission pays them to work there, his is a labour of genuine love.

It's a peaceful spot and the traffic of the town only penetrates so far. The history of the place is unbelievable - over half the graves are for those felled by malaria under the age of 40. There is a small chapel right outside the gate which has been turned into a mini-museum to record the evolution of the Garrison Cemetery over the years. It's worth seeing if you catch it open.

BFFs: tortoises and monitor lizards

It took me about 2 hours to see everything properly, and then I came downhill and took a leisurely stroll around the lake. It was heartening to see wildlife return to the banks of the Kandy lake; I remember a time when authorities rounded up the pelicans because they were "making a mess."

Lunch was at Pizza Hut back then but now that the food court World Spice has opened on top of KCC (Kandy City Centre) you should have no problems grabbing a bite. And can I recommend the Oreo Banana milkshake at Natural Coffee? It's next to Pizza Hut on Temple Street, in front of Queen's Hotel.3 words: To. Die. For.

Getting back, you can catch a Kandy-Colombo bus or take the 3.00 pm intercity train to Fort. Again, it's better to book tickets to ensure you have a seat. I of course, stayed on at home but you can get to Colombo by 5.30 pm, just in time to catch the sunset.

(Approx.) Time Taken:  1 day

(Approx.) Total Cost  :  LKR 1200

Satisfaction              :  4/5

*All pictures are subject to copyright © Asuka Randeniye 2016.