My Budgeting Break: Ella :D

Graffiti art near Nine Arches Bridge  

I know, I know. I said I was on a break. To be fair, I did pay for this trip before I announced that I was taking a break. So it doesn’t count, right?

Here’s what happened: a bunch of friends invited me on a 2-day/1 night hike. The trip was organized by a girl in the group. All told, it cost each of us only LKR 4000 total. Read on to find out the miraculous way we managed on that pittance.

We left Colombo for Ella by the night mail train from Pettah railway station at 8.00 PM. We booked 3^rd class tickets which are LKR 400 each (ticket is valid all the way to Badulla). There are 1^st and 2^nd class berths too but they get booked faster than you can say “hot potato.” There is only one 3^rd class car which can be booked – the rest are open seating so each man for himself – so make sure that you book nice and early.

I've drawn, as near as I can, the railway route from Pettah to Ella via Rambukkana, Peradeniya, Walapane, Haputale, Badulla and Ohiya

 On the way to Ella station, I discovered the magical game of ‘Mafia.’ I had not played this game before. Yeah, yeah, I lived under a rock. But now I see the light. It’s a crazy-ass game which has several Mafia (wo)men invading a village at night and attempting to kill the innocent villagers, the doctor and the policeman and... etc. etc. Too long to describe but you can find out how to play it here.

We played into the wee hours of the night. My friends know that I usually hug the pillow by 10.30. I was up till about 12 or more, which is quite an achievement for me.

The lights went out around 1 AM the next day (we are still in the train folks!) and we were lulled to sleep by the gentle sway of the train as it wound its way through the beautiful (unfortunately, now dark) hill country. As we went up, the air got cooler and by 5 AM, all of us were bundled up in jackets and scarves. A couple of (brave? idiotic?) boys decided to face Ella and its mist in board shorts and tank tops.

We got off at Ella station around 6 AM. Our aim was to hike to the summit of Ella Rock, climb down by way of the Ravana Caves and have a quick dip at Ravana falls. Remember your Sri Lankan history? This is where the Demon King Ravana is supposed to have held the beautiful Sita captive after he kidnapped her from Rama.

All the places we covered that first day: Ella station, Ella Rock, Ravana Falls and the Demodera Nine Arches Bridge

Walking back to Kithal Ella st.

It was only after we got down that we realized we should’ve gotten down one station before at Kithal Ella. This meant that we had to hike back a bit the way we came along the railway track. 

Waiting for rotti at Garden View Restaurant

We made a friend during breakfast

We stopped on the way for breakfast at a rail side තේ කඩේ (tea shop) called Garden View Restaurant. We stuffed our tummies with carbs in the form of tea buns, bread, කිඹුලා (kimbula) buns and rotti. Omg that rotti! It was piping hot and somebody magically produced seeni sambol. Yum times 1000. Even after all 18 of us ate, the bill only came up to LKR 1600+.

We started the hike proper around 9 AM through a cart road leading away from Kithal Ella station. Word of warning: start your hike earlier or the sun will blast you. We were inexperienced hikers with various levels of fitness so it took us till 10 AM to get to the top of Ella Rock. It sounds like a short time but let me assure you, we burned all the carbs we ate. By the time I got to the top, I was calling on all the gods from the Romans to the Mayans for strength. I am not as fit as I thought.

Mind you, the view was FABULOUS. Everywhere we looked there was a beautiful vista to see. We spent about an hour at the top, simply admiring the view. Let’s not forget the fantastic cup of tea we had – I understand why the British were so desperate to plant the stuff on our hills. Of course, everyone also had to take selfies in every damn pose they could think of so it took a while.

View from Ella Rock summit

More views

Coming down we took a slightly easier route and had thambili (king coconut) to revive us. I tell you, Red Bull can’t touch what Mother Nature gave us. We got lost – several times – and even went down somebody’s back garden (yes, people live here). We found a tarred road in the end and followed it down to the main road, emerging somewhere between Ella and Ravana Falls, tired but happy to see motorized transport again.

We bussed it to Ravana Falls (LKR 20 each) and were shocked to see the hordes of people who were bathing and swimming in it. The water was cool though and I was sorely tempted to jump in myself, something I had promised myself I wouldn’t do. 

(To be continued...)

See you guys next week!