Mihintale: The Rock That Burnt My Feet

Nuwara wewa © S. V. Randeniye 2016

Mihintale was always a priority on my travel check list because I have never made it to the top. Don't judge - I had a severe wheezing problem as a kid. So this time, I was determined to climb to the very top, including the top of ආරාධනා ගල (Ārādhanā gala - the rock of ... invitation?) and the newly renovated stupa. 

And I did. *fist pump 

We left A'pura early on the second day after a good night's sleep and a hearty breakfast - Rajarata Lodge knows their breakfasts. We left around 8am, which is already actually too late because the sun rises around 6.30 in A'pura. 

Fortunately for us, the rock wasn't that heated yet so we managed to scamper up fairly fast on the first few flights.

Mihintale is located East of the road from Kandy to A'pura, meaning you have to turn right at Galkulama junction before you reach A'pura. Since we were coming from A'pura, we went along the Jaffna highway towards Trincomalee, along the bund of Nuwara wewa, to the Rajarata University in Mihintale and onto Poson mawatha that leads to the Mihintale rock. Use Google maps, everyone :)

Kandy - Mihintale via Google Maps

One thing everyone should know about Mihintale (ok, 2 things): It is 80% rock and 95% steps. That means that for most of the day, Mihintale is a trial in perseverance. You can wear shoes/slippers for half the way, but have to remove them and leave them at a counter like at most Buddhist temples to reach the final stage of the climb. The sand in the temple courtyard is worse than the rock; it blinds as well as burns. 

Steps at Mihintale

... and more steps

Mihintale goes like this: stone steps, sandy courtyard with ruins, stone steps, more stone steps, some more stone steps and the temple courtyard. From there you turn right and climb up the rock to see the dazzling white stupa; or you turn left and climb up the precariously balanced Ārādhanā gala.

Like I said, we reached Mihintale fairly early, before the hordes of pilgrims had arrived to dominate the endless vista of steps. Our only companions were the monkeys that raced up and down the sides while we (pathetically) panted and struggled our way to the top. There are plenty of detours available: a series of ruined stupas, an old stone tank which is now dry, an Ayurvedic herb garden and several other sites. But we had only one goal: Ārādhanā gala.

If anyone has vertigo, I suggest you stay on terra firma. I was praying non-stop on my way up because there is only one rickety hand-rail and no one waits for you to get a footing. No no, people will climb around you, under you, next to you and even through you if possible. But the view... omg, the view. It even made me forget the smell of burning feet.

Ārādhanā gala

Let me just add that the view from the stupa was equally amazing. It's not as high up, but we discovered a less-frequented path behind it that led to the old stupa (now in ruins) and a ravine behind where you could see for miles. It was a bit of a Lover's Lane for the local kids, but that didn't spoil the view for anyone - except my mom maybe.

Mihintale stupa as seen from Ārādhanā gala

I'm not sure this quite counts as a budget trip coz it's an extension of the earlier one, so I'm not tallying up. Expenses were few anyway: parking ticket LKR 50, and lunch on the way (4 people) LKR 1000 at a roadside kade. We made a brief stop at Kaludiya Pokuna just next to Mihintale before heading on straight home.

Kaludiya Pokuna (Pond of Black Waters)

Me at the edge of the ravine behind the Mihintale stupa

Satisfaction            : 5/5 (despite the roasted soles)

*All pictures are subject to copyright © Asuka Randeniye 2016